A tale of the shirt tail: shortening a silky shirt

Angie's post a while back about The Visual Advantages of Shorter Tops resonated with me. She said "Grazing the hipbone or sitting just below the waist, untucked tops work well with skirts, pants, and jeans with volume and higher waists." Because I'm high-waisted, I find a lot of tops are not quite at that magic length on me. Usually I make them work by semi-tucking or tucking them in, and sometimes also tucking and blousing them over the waistband.
I ordered this AllSaints shirt a while back, and kept it because I loved the print. I thought it would be a great low-key festive piece to have on hand for holiday get-togethers. Then I didn't wear it; I would always pass over it in favor of something else.

Sometimes it takes me a while to realize the length is the problem. Angie's post made me wonder if I'd like this shirt better at a shorter length. I tried it on, decided on a new length, and pinned it. As I've mentioned before, I dislike doing alterations, so of course I procrastinated. Fast forward to now, several months later, and well past the holidays, and I finally hemmed it.

This fabric is not easy to work with, and despite my painstaking efforts to mark it evenly all around, serge off the bottom right along my marked line, and turn it up twice to make a meticulous rolled him with my edge-stitching foot on the sewing machine, I was not happy with the results. it looked uneven in the front. And then, come to think of it, the back looked uneven also. And maybe I had taken off too much! Aack. I thought it was destined for donation.

But I had nothing to lose, so I tried to fix it. I ripped out part of the hem in back and in front, re-serged, re-sewed, tried it on my dress form, and it looked even. Then I tried it on myself again, and eureka! I had a shirt I might actually wear. And you know what? The sides of the shirt-tail are right at that sweet spot Angie described--just at the hipbone. I can wear the shirt untucked, and it looks good over high-waisted pants with volume.

And that's what I wore today, out to lunch with a friend. Don't you like a tale with a happy ending?

Photos:
1: The shirt before hemming
2: After hemming, worn with black drapy denim lantern pants with off-white top-stitching (made by me); off-white open-stitch cardigan (AllSaints); black moto boots (Blondo). Not pictured: Olive utility jacket (Lauren Ralph Lauren); silver cross body bag (AllSaints).

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This post is also published in the youlookfab forum. You can read and reply to it in either place. All replies will appear in both places.

28 Comments

  • Janet replied 1 month ago

    Sharan, this is EXACTLY what I am doing these days. I’m so tired of all these tops that come down to the crotch point or even below — it’s a length that looks so bad on me. And I’m getting tired of the tied at the waist strategy, and the semi-tuck is sometimes fine and often less than ideal. So I’m evaluating a lot of my tops with this in mind. I have the most rudimentary of sewing skills, so I’d be nervous to try to hem my tops myself. Maybe one can be cut and left with a raw hem, hmm. It will be costly to get all my too-long tops professionally altered. So I’m going to be selective. Maybe some of them are just ready to leave my closet.

    Thanks for the brilliant before and after illustration! I love the shirt and am so glad you are enjoying it now.

  • Firecracker (Sharan) replied 1 month ago

    Thank you, Janet. Short waists unite! You are right--it makes a big difference. This hemming job was particularly difficult because of the slippery fabric and the curved, high-low hem. The curves mean that you are sewing on the bias for much of it, and fabric can stretch in the process of sewing (which might have happened, even though I was being careful, or perhaps the original hem wasn't as even as I supposed). A fabric like cotton shirting is much easier to work with, even on the bias, as it is more stable. So you might get different estimates from your tailor depending on the task at hand.

  • Jenni NZ replied 1 month ago

    Very good change. I am trying now to not buy them the wrong length, since my post about my new pink top late last year which I had lots of advice on and have continued to wear bloused out from pants and shorts over my summer. I hadn’t found another print at the time that I liked nearly as much.
    It’s great you can wear your lovely blouse now.
    But I do like it in pic 1 as well and would have personally happily worn it like that!

  • Lisa replied 1 month ago

    The new length looks great! You’re very talented to sew that yourself, it doesn’t not look like it was easy to work with. But it was worth it!

  • Angie replied 1 month ago

    Queen Pedantic About Lengths reporting for duty.

  • Angie replied 1 month ago

    Sharan! WHAT A VISUAL DIFFERENCE!!! That beautiful pattern loves you right back. 

    Well done persevering, in all sorts of ways! Proud of you! KILLER cute blouse that is ready for the holidays - or whenever you feel like wearing it. Like having tea, lunch, and a shop with a friend at U-Village :) 

    I also hereby crown you Queen AllSaints. 

  • JAileen replied 1 month ago

    Great job!  What a huge improvement!  When I’ve shortened tops I did it by hand - no serger.  :(

  • Kate replied 1 month ago

    What a great job! A night and day transformation. I love the look of the new old shirt.

  • Firecracker (Sharan) replied 1 month ago

    Thanks, JenniZ. It's hard not to end up with things that are not quite the right length. Your top is so pretty, and you've found ways to wear it that look great. I think with this one, since I tried it on with those slim pants, I didn't notice that it was more of a tunic than a shirt on me. Now I can wear it with more things.
    Lisa, thank you!
    Angie, glad you like it, too. And thanks for the crown. I feel like I should get a commission from AllSaints. LOL!
    JAileen, as I recall you've shortened knit t-shirts by hand! Talk about painstaking. Hand sewing does give you a lot of control, though.
    Thanks, Kate!

  • kellygirl replied 1 month ago

    What a great visual to show the importance of proportion! The blouse is gorgeous and so fab at the shorter length. Love these outfits!

  • Star replied 1 month ago

    Perfect now!  I do shorten tops too.

  • Firecracker (Sharan) replied 1 month ago

    Thanks, Kelly and Star!

  • Bonnie replied 1 month ago

    I have the same problem with shirts and have stopped buying them. Your post makes me rethink my ban. The hemming changed the look from meh to fab! 

  • Indigoprint replied 1 month ago

    Well done. It is scary to cut into a beautiful fabric. You look Fab. It seems like just the right topper for your wardrobe.

  • Jenny H replied 1 month ago

    Wow, you did such a great job at this! It sounds like the process was frustrating but it turned out so good in the end. I, likewise, suffer from many tops being too long so maybe I'll rally the courage to give this a try.

  • Ket replied 1 month ago

    What a gorgeous blouse, Sharan! WOW!! I'm so glad you suffered through the alteration process and kept going. You look so stellar! If I lived closer, I would take you out for tea or a cocktail to celebrate the alterations and enjoy such a beautiful and edgy outfit! :D

  • Runcarla replied 1 month ago

    Well done!  I’ve had the experience of hemming a too long shirt - and not get it right.  I’ve also had success, and the item has become a frequently worn top.  

  • Jaime replied 1 month ago

    So well done! I would love to find someone who could help me do stuff like that!

  • Suz replied 1 month ago

    Oh my goodness, what a difference! Thank you for your patience in doing this tricky alteration and then in showing us the incredible result. It is SO much better this way! Wow. I have done this with a few tops and it has made a big difference but none, I think, quite as dramatic as this! Brava! 

    You are making me think about doing this with my Eileen Fisher orchid silk shirt that I really don't wear a lot because of the length. 

  • BrieN replied 1 month ago

    I enjoyed reading of your perseverance and success! The top looks great.

    I was on the phone with my daughter the last time I was cutting and sewing a woven silk blouse to make it more cropped. I was getting frustrated with how slippery it was. She told me to pin it to tissue paper before cutting it and sew as much as I could with tissue paper beneath the project. It was a helpful tip.

  • RobinF replied 1 month ago

    Being quite short, I often have a problem with lengths - both bottoms and tops. Tops can be hard to hem depending on the fabric and shape but can be very satisfying when they work out. Lately I have been hacking off the hems of t-shirts and that makes them much more wearable for me. 

    I liked your top in the first pic but then saw that after and agree it is a nice improvement. 

  • Carol replied 1 month ago

    Wow--hats off. I do not sew, but always regretted that. I do not think I would have thought to shorten it--I probably just would have tucked it. It does look a lot better. I love that print, too...it reminds me of some of the florals that were showing up on runways 10-15 years ago.  

  • SarahD8 replied 1 month ago

    Amazing workmanship and stellar result! I'm always in awe of your sewing skills. I really like the swingy cut of the shirt, which the new length shows off to best effect. Well done!

  • Firecracker (Sharan) replied 4 weeks ago

    Thanks, everyone!
    Suz, your comment reminds me I have an Eileen Fisher blouse I might want to take a look at for possible shortening.
    BrieN, thanks for the tip. I've used that technique when making a garment from silk, but I didn't think to do it with an alteration project.

  • Brooklyn replied 4 weeks ago

    Looks brilliant Sharan. Hats off to you for persistence. I have a hack for shortening my shirts that I will share on the forum. It might interest you.

  • Firecracker (Sharan) replied 4 weeks ago

    Thanks, Brooklyn--I'll keep an eye out!

  • Jaime replied 3 weeks ago

    I am doing the exact same thing! I also have a short waist and refuse to do any kind of tucking since I also have a tummy. I am loving matching sets now and bought a beautiful bright coral cotton gauze one from Aritzia. It's still at the shop getting shortened. Can't wait to see if it works. The long tops over the baggy pants just swallow me up. If it works I will take my linen sets too. 

  • Laurie replied 3 weeks ago

    That is SUCH a fantastic alteration. Thanks for walking us through and showing the before and after. 
    I bow down to those of you who sew!

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